Step 2: String heights
This bigly effects your instrument's playability.Tools:
- A metal ruler that shows 64ths of an inch*
- The appropriate tool (often a small hex key) to adjust your saddle heights
Do not do this step until your neck relief is correct. Seriously–don’t. Step 2 depends on step 1 having been done correctly. No capo, no fretting. With your bass in playing position, look down at your neck, place the metal ruler on the far side of the E string at the 12th fret (see image), and look really closely under the string to see how many 64ths it is above the fret wire. You’ll need good light. You may even need a magnifying glass.
Some manufacturers say that your bass guitar E string should be 6/64ths above the fret. I like to see 5/64ths. (Guitar players will want their E string height to be 4/64ths. ) If it is too high, lower the bridge saddle and measure again. If it is too low, raise the bridge saddle and measure again.
(If you are raising the saddle it’s a good idea to de-tune the string to relieve tension.) Once your E is correct, measure the highest string. It should be 3 to 4/64ths for bass and between 2.5 and 3/64ths for guitar. Once you have set it correctly, split the difference between them when you set the heights of the strings in between them.
Final task. Now is the time to check for fret buzz. Just play every note on your G string from first to last, making sure every note can be played cleanly. Now repeat this for the other strings. You will almost certainly have no buzzing. If you do have buzz, it could be a sign of a deeper problem with your instrument. Take it in to a reputable tech and have them evaluate it for fret issues.
* A lot of people are kinda salty about this. Metric! The whole world uses metric! Yeah, I know. But splitting millimeters by eye is no way to do this task. It just isn’t.